2014-06-19: Pisgah National Forest (NC)

Start: Dismal Swamp Tract of Cavalier WMA (NC)
Stop: Pisgah National Forest

2014-06-18: Dismal Swamp Tract of Cavalier WMA (NC)

Pivot
After 3 weeks and 258 miles on the northern half of the Appalachian Trail, Bogey and I assessed our situation. While my foot was recuperating, I was having trouble keeping the wound clean and we, in general, were having trouble getting our daily mileage where it should be. The week or more of rain certainly wasn't helping our spirits, either. We've certainly hiked in the rain before -- at some point the rain stops and everything that was wet eventually dries out -- but getting my foot infected certainly didn't sound fun. Having put on my last pair of clean & dry socks the morning of the 12th, my feet were again soaked within 15 minutes. The tape holding the sterile gauze in place slipped after a couple of hours and the blisters began.

The morning of (Friday!) the 13th, we walked across NJ 94 to a bakery/deli to get something to eat. It was over coffee that Bogey looked at me and said, "We should --"

"--Call your uncle and get the hell out of here, go back to Baltimore, grab the truck, and spend the rest of the Summer driving all over the place, going down to Texas to visit my folks, then to New Mexico to visit your grandmother, and then out to the West Coast, and then maybe up to Seattle or something, and then drive back across The Badlands, maybe to Minneapolis/St. Paul to see where the Mississippi River starts, and then across the top of the United States back to the East Coast?!"

She laughed.

And then we agreed that that was the new plan. And, thus, we pivoted.

Our plan was very loose. We plan on being in Houston on Sunday the 22. I usually plan on making the 1500 mile drive in two days -- about 12 hours each day -- but I always feel I miss so much plus I'm just drained by the time I pull up in the folks' driveway. So, this time, we decided we'd take several days heading down and stop and smell the roses (and pines, and hardwood forests, lakes, mountains, grasslands, and hamburgers, seafood, barbecue, chicken fried steak, and whatever else strikes our fancy). Beyond Houston, we'll head out to New Mexico to visit Bogey's grandmother near Sandia Peak, and then perhaps wander through Colorado (Silverton, Durango, etc.) on our way to the upper Northwest. After that, cut east through the Badlands, upper plains, the Great Lakes area, and then back to Baltimore.

Finances

Our biggest concern is money. Driving a 8000 lbs gas-guzzling truck across the country and back requires a lot more money than simply walking. Or so I thought. The rule of thumb for calculating expenditures as you hike the Appalachian Trail is two dollars per mile. On the back of a napkin in the bakery/deli, I did some rough estimates using the truck's average highway gas mileage (14 MPG on a good day and not exceeding 70 MPH) at $4.00 per gallon of gas, staying in cheap motels a few nights a week and camping the rest of the time, and sticking as close to a Trail diet (Ramen noodles, oatmeal, tuna packets and tortillas, and so on). Driving beat walking on a per-mile basis. Bogey didn't think it was a fair or accurate comparison, making the point that it wasn't about the miles but the cost per day. We discussed it a bit (I know she thought I was crazy and my calculations and assumptions were off) and what we arrived at was this: We knew how much money we had left of our Trail budget and when we had to be back by; we'd simply sketch out a plan and return when the money droppedd to a certain point. In all likelihood, we'd return from our Summer fun earlier than had we stayed hiking on the Trail, but that'd be alright: she could allow a little more time for a job search and preparing for the Fall semester and I could return to work that much sooner.

So, it was decided.

Lodging

To keep costs down, we'd limit our motel stays to twice a week and use free or very inexpensive campsites and other options. After a bit of research, we discovered that one can camp in all national forests and many Bureau of Land Management (BLM), USDA forest service, and Army Corps of Engineer areas for free. In addition, many state and county parks and some municipal parks are very low cost ($4 and up). With that in mind, plus a few helpful websites bookmarked, and the term boondocking added to our vocabulary, we set out.

So, here we are on first night out, in the Cavalier Wildlife Management Area (WMA) and across Highway 17 from the Dismal Swamp.

Transportation

Alas, my truck's air conditioning is not working. I took the truck in to have the Freon recharged but the shop came back and said the compressor was seized. In addition to about a thousand dollars of work, the repairs would need a couple of days to do. Bogey's parents offered us the use of Toyota Sienna, which turned out to be a much better choice than the truck. Not only is the minivan more reliable than my truck with 340,000 miles, it has more space in the passenger area and gets much, much better gas mileage.

2014-06-13:

Start: U.S. 206, Culvers Gap / Branchville, NJ
Stop:
Daily Mileage:
Total Mileage:

Socks drying over the room's sole lamp. This isn't exactly safe and it makes the entire room smell like moldy old socks, but it was the only way to dry clothes that had been wet for several days. The motel didn't have laundry machines and the town didn't contain a laundromat. Our clothes and gear were beginning to mold after it rained the previous several days.

The view from the motel room. That afternoon the rain let up for a few hours before storms rolled in and the rain began again.

2014-07-12: U.S. 206, Culvers Gap / Branchville, NJ

Started: 1/2 mile south of Blue Man Lakes Road
Stop: U.S. 206, Culvers Gap / Branchville, NJ
Daily Mileage: 11.1
Total Mileage: 258.5

The Trail as it follows an old road through the forest.

A weather monitoring station.

Bogey consulting the Thru-Hikers Companion after we discovered that this water pump was indeed turned off or broken. It was our third consecutive water source (two the day before and now this one) that we either didn't find/see or was otherwise unavailable. The one liter of water I have left on me at this point, I gathered from a creek which drained from a marsh. Between me and Bogey, we have almost two liters to last the rest of the day -- not enough water.

A seemingly Dr. Seuss -inspired mushroom in front of wildflowers. The mushroom was about as large as a dinner plate and was near the broken/inoperable water pump.

Lichen and moss on a rock next to the Trail. When you move at 2 MPH all day, you get plenty of opportunities to see and enjoy little things like this.

The view from a ridge where we stopped for a water & snack break. We knew there were other mountains to be seen but for several days we've been socked in by clouds, fog, and mist. We were very frustrated that the cameras always showed a clearer picture than what we saw with the naked eye. It's on my list of "To Do's" to research this phenomenon next time we're in town with Internet access. It also dawned on my that the clarity the digital cameras had might be useful when our own eyes limited us.

2014-06-11: 1/2 mile south of Blue Mtn Lakes Road

Start: Backpacker Campsite #2, Washington State Forest
Stop: 1/2 mile south of Blue Mtn Lakes Road
Daily Mileage: 12.5
Total Mileage: 247.4

Sunfish Pond, the southern most glacial lake on the AT. I had been looking forward to seeing this ever since I read it in the Thru-Hikers Companion -- I've never seen a glacial pond before. The Trail came down to the waters edge and skirted the lake -- often times only a foot away from the water -- for the entire western edge of the lake.

Three of the orange salamanders I like so much. There's one to the left, one at the top of the picture, and one on the right and partially obscured by a leaf.

A fire tower owned and managed by the New Jersey Forest Fire Service (NJFSS). In Georgia, North Carolina, and Tennessee, we were hikers are able to climb many of the towers but not here. The NJFSS had several signs with stern warnings to stay off.

The Trail going straight as an arrow and level. Plus, there were no rocks. Hopefully, the agony and annoyance that was the rocky surface of the Trail in Pennsylvania will fade from memory.

2014-06-10: Backpacker Campsite #2, Washington State Forest

Start: Dunnfirld Creek Natural Area
Stop: Backpacker Campsite #2, Washington State Forest
Daily Mileage: 3.4
Total Mileage: 234.9

Pictures to be added later.

Coming out of Delaware Water Gap, the Trail wanders up a creek (which, of course, empties in the Delaware River) and then breaks away to a climb which takes you to the top of the mountain a ridge you follow across the length of the state forest.

We dutifully followed the Trail, with Bogey's Uncle Fred leading up for the first 30 or so minutes. It was obvious he wanted to continue with us rather than return to his sales job -- he not only got in front of us but set a blistering pace that had I think that left us hustling to keep up. Try as I did to keep up, I fell behind after a few minutes and reminded myself that where Uncle Fred wasn't carrying a pack and would return to his van soon enough, I would be carrying this pack the rest of the day and I needed to just slow down and hike my own hike. Uncle Fred was pleased with the Trail as he saw it and I think he and his son Rick will be out here soon to explore some more.

While in the Washington State Forest, hikers are allowed to camp at one site only, "Backpacker Campsite #2." It was only 3-1/2 miles from the road crossing. The only other choice for camping is to hike all the way through the state forest and camp just outside it. Since that was a hike of about twenty-four miles or so (and, even on a good day, it would've been impossible for us since we were getting such a late start), we had to settle for the Campsite #2. We reached it in a little less than an hour-and-a-half.

The campsite was on a ridge and appeared to be the result of a fire, which had cleared the underbrush years ago and left only the trees and a few burned logged among the long and wavy grass. There were two bear boxes and two privies. We also noted a large family-sized tent which Bogey thought might be abandoned. We opted to camp away from that tent and chose a spot about 50 yards from the second bear box. The site offered good views -- if the fog ever cleared and was away from the tree line. My foot was sore as my boot kept pushing down in on the scab and I was glad we were stopping for the day. It was a shame, however, that it was only 3:30 in the afternoon and we'd be stuck just sitting in camp until dark, maybe five hours away. However, it couldn't be helped since we didn't want to hike the remaining 21 miles to the next specified campsite. Even had we the energy to do 24 miles in a day, we wouldn't have reached the site until about one in the morning, at our 2 MPH speed.

We set up our tent, sat around for about 30 minutes, and then made dinner. I opted for just plain Ramen noodles and was reminded how easy the pot is to wipe clean when you don't add peanut butter, soy sauce, and other things. I will have to remember this!

After dinner, we moved into my tent to review the Thru-Hikers Companion, look at our water options, and see what tomorrow might bring. We had also gotten tired of the mosquitoes and other bugs which were starting to pester us. After a bit, we heard a very annoying bird squawking in the tree line. The sound was both a little loud, very persistent, and had an eerie quality about it that set the nerves on edge.

The squawking continued and then grew louder. Bogey straightened up and pointing through the tent mesh, said in surprise, "Look, it's a baby deer!" I turned and saw what I took to be jackrabbit running pell-mell from the tree line and into the campsite, which was about 2 acres. And then, we saw it -- a black bear right behind the deer, thump-thump-thumping in lumbering yet shockingly fast pursuit. The deer made towards the privy in the distance, then cut right. Either the baby deer saw us and thought we were its best chance for rescue or the bright red of my tent caught its eye and it just decided to run that way. In any case, it turned on a dime and headed straight for us. I still wasn't sure what I was looking at, but whatever it was -- very large rabbit or very tiny deer -- was screaming at the top of its lungs and running for all it was worth. The bear was only two or three yards behind it and we could hear the heavy thump-thump-thump as it loped (again, at crazy fast speed) behind the bear.

The deer was bleating, now no longer sounding like a strange bird but rather an animal yelling for its mother or anyone else to come rescue it. The deer flashed past our tent, passing about four feet from the opening of my tent. By this time, we were both scrambling -- frankly I can't remember if it was to get a better look at the drama unfolding in front of us, or to prepare for a hasty escape from the tent (where I certainly didn't want to be zipped in and trapped when the bear arrived), or simply scrambling for scrambling's sake.

The bear skidded to a stop in front of the tent and turned its head to look at us. We were only four feet apart and it was the closest I've ever been to a bear. I'd like to say that up close it looked magnificent or that I noticed some detail like the color or its fur or the structure of its paws. But, all I really recall is a voice in my mind saying, "Shit! That bear has either decided we're a better dinner or it's pissed we've interrupted its dinner." A split second later I realized that the bear was simply confused -- I think it meant to merely dash past the tent and had no idea anyone or anything would be in there. But, as it was passing we were still scrambling: Thru-Hikers Guide and smart phones flying the air, sleeping bag and Therm-a-Rest on which we were sitting getting pushed aside as we tried to get up, and hands flailing for the tent zippers or flash lights. Our activity had caught its eye and it had stopped to investigate.

We both clapped and I yelled "Git outta here!" That was our standard response when we heard bears in the night and it usually worked. I'm sure no thought went into it this time -- we just automatically made noise and yelled. I think I was somewhat surprised when it worked and the bear looked ahead and took off running again.

We both spilled out of the tent so as to get a better look at the bear and keep an eye on it. Also, I believe, so as to not be trapped in the tent should the bear return. I looked again and, yes, the bear had only been four or five feet from us. Yikes!

We no longer heard the baby deer bleating but we also never heard it scream as if it had been caught, so I suggested that the moment or so the bear had taken to examine us had afforded the baby deer an opportunity to put some more distance between himself and the bear and had ultimately escaped.

Only then did I turn around and realize that our food bags and cook kits were arrayed on the ground between our tents. "Ummm, maybe we should lock our food and stuff in the bear box," I suggested.

Bogey refused to sit down and instead chose to stand, hands on hips, and look in the direction in which the bear had disappeared. A few minutes later she exclaimed, "He's back!"

I turned and, sure enough, the bear was peering over some bushes about 50 yards away, watching us. We again clapped and yelled at it and it scampered off. We couldn't tell for sure, but the bear seemed to move down the mountain a bit and skirted around our campsite by about 100 yards or so, judging from the "Hrrrmmpphs" we heard and the crackling of twigs and such.

Between then and when we finally turned in around nine o'clock, we didn't see or hear the bear again. However, about ten minutes of eleven that night, we both sat up and said, "Bear!" as we heard a distinctive "hrrrrrmmmppphh" from the tree line. Between clapping and peering out with our headlamps, we made enough ruckus and the/a bear wandered off. It took some time for us to fall back asleep and every crackle from every squirrel and other innocuous creature sent us into a momentary freeze and then mad scramble for lights and sound.

It was a long night.

2014-06-09: (Netcong, NJ)

2014-06-08: (Netcong, NJ)

2014-06-07: Dunnfield Creek Natural Area

Start: 1/2 mile north of Kirkridge Shelter
Stop: Dunnfield Creek Natural Area
Daily Mileage: 7.3
Total Mileage: 230.5

Bogey posing in front of Edge of the Woods Outfitters as we come into Delaware Water Gap. This picture is the result of a standing bit between us which began a few weeks ago. At that time, I hoped she would offer to take my picture as we looked out on a beautiful scene -- she was already snapping pictures anyway. As she continued to frame and snap pictures, I kept inching my way into the scene, posing as I did so. At some point, she got my hint and asked, "Are you trying to tell me you want me to take your picture?!" Now, on occasion, one of us will edge into the other's photograph efforts and pose until the other gets the hint, "Take my picture!"

Edge of the Woods Outfitters, at which we stopped to pick up my phone, which had been recovered and mailed to me by Bogey's parents. Any outfitter is a pleasing sight and destination for hikers. In addition to being able to get our hands on hiking-specific gear, it's nice to be around people that actually understand our situation and the Trail. Outfitters are a big part of the hiking and Appalachian Trail community and can offer all types of information and suggestions.

A bakery and farmers stand in Delaware Water Gap at which we stopped for lunch. Their claim to fame is the $2.99 hot dog and apple pie combination. Bogey and I opted instead for barbecue sandwiches and some side dishes, as I rarely see barbecue up here.

Our view as we enter New Jersey through Delaware Water Gap. The camera doesn't come close to capturing the ruggedness of the mountains.

Me, running to beat Bogey to the state line.

Mile Marker 0, on the bridge over the Delaware River, and marking the Pennsylvania/New Jersey state line.

My foot, after the athletic tape removed large chunks of skin from my foot. Our theory is that the tape pulled on the skin all day, which was soft due to being soaked in my boot for days due to unending rain, and ultimately caused a set of blisters which popped. When I removed the tape, the tape pulled the blistered skin away. (Over the next few days, we'll see a little bruising plus my foot will swell.)

Bogey's Uncle Fred minding the fire and dinner. He's incredibly knowledgeable about history -- especially New Jersey history -- and we enjoyed all the stories and tidbits he told us.

Bogey looking happy not to be walking for a bit. Her Aunt Cindy is in the background.

"Door Slammin' Chicken" being cooked in a cast iron Dutch oven over hot coals by Bogey's Uncle Fred.

2014-06-06: 1/2 mile north of Kirkridge Shelter

Started: PA 33/Wind Gap, PA
Stopped: 1/2 mile north of Kirkridge Shelter
Daily Mileage: 9.7
Total Mileage: 223.2

2014-06-05: PA 33/Wind Gap, PA

Started: Delps Trail
Stopped: PA 33/Wind Gap, PA
Daily Mileage: 10.6
Total Mileage: 213.5

2014-06-04: Delps Trail

Started: 1 mile north of Bake Oven Knob
Stopped: Delps Trail
Daily Mileage: 16.1
Total Mileage: 202.9

2014-06-03: 1 mile north of Bake Oven Knob

Started: Allentown Hiking Club Shelter
Stopped: 1 mile north of Bake Oven Knob
Daily Mileage: 11.4
Total Mileage: 186.8

2014-06-02: Allentown Hiking Club Shelter

Started: 1 mile south of The Pulpit
Stopped: Allentown Hiking Club Shelter
Daily Mileage: 13.6
Total Mileage: 175.4

2014-06-01: 1 mile south of The Pulpit

Started: Port Clinton, PA
Stopped: 1 mile south of The Pulpit
Daily Mileage: 161.8
Total Mileage: 2.0

For the next week or so I'll have to write my trail journal by hand, as I have misplaced my phone. ON the bright side, capturing everything by pen and paper is much easier than working the tiny keyboard provided by the phone.

We made a grand total of two miles today, having spent most of the day with Bogey's parents, one of her sisters, and our dog Pancake. Kutzville proved to be a very charming town. Of all the places to eat we found on the main drag, we chose a nice family-owned fifties-themed burger and ice cream place. They also had sidewalk dining, which was important since we had Pancake with us.

In addition to a hot meal in nearby Kutzville, Blue Rocks Family Campground also afforded us access to showers and a laundry machines. The showers were free and better than expected. They didn't provided towels and washcloths, so I used a bandana as a washcloth and my pack towel to dry off with.

The campground charged not per site but per car and per tent. The cost per tent of $32 but the guidebook referred to a hiker discount. Upon inquiring, the lady said that was only available Monday through Friday (we were checking in on Saturday night). However, she called the manager who offered to provide the discount since they had room. We had paid for one tent, so Bogey set up her tent and I simply spread my ground cloth out, inflated my Therm-a-Rest, and crawled into my sleeping bag.

Back to today: We left the campsite around 5:30 and made our way up the one mile blue-blazed Blue Trail to the AT, where we said goodbye to Bogey's family and Pancake. After that, we followed the Trail up to Pulpit Rock, giving us a 800+ foot ascent from the campground.

After admiring the view from Pulpit Rock and talking to a local club member who wander up (and told us all about the copperhead snakes lurking in the crevices around the lookout), we hiked for another 30 minutes. We were able to find a suitable campsite well enough off the trail to not draw the attention of the game wardens. The Thru-Hikers Companion didn't say anything about not camping along that stretch, but the gentleman with whom we had chatted at The Pulpit said the game wardens were known to patrol the area and issue $200 citations to each camper for camping in the wrong areas. In any case, we weren't sure we'd find a flat and level campsite before dark so we took our chance in a little grove which was hidden from the Trail by a slight rise and then a dip in the terrain, plus a field of ferns which prevented a clear view in the direction of our tents. To be on the safe side, I rolled up the rain flaps (where were, of all colors, red) and tucked my tent's guy lines, which sported reflective white stripes so one can see them by headlamp and not trip, under  my tent or under leaves. Here's hoping that no rain or winds come tonight!