2014-05-31: Blue Trail to Blue Rocks Campsite

Started: Hertlein Campsite
Stopped: Blue Trail to Blue Rocks Campsite
Daily Mileage:
Total Mileage:

The park in Port Clinton, PA in which we were allowed to camp. There were a number of other hikers already set up by the time we arrived. Others would show up later. The town of Hamburg is a mile or two down the road and has several restaurants, a Walmart, and a Cabellas (a sporting goods store). These are on our list of To Do's today.

One of the restaurants in Port Clinton. We opted for the all-you-can-eat Chinese buffet in Hamburg instead.

A hand-operated water pump in the park in which we were camped. After filling our water bottles to the brim with water from this pump, we were told by a more experienced hiker not to trust the water. We ended up dumping the water and using a spigot provided for hikers by a very nice lady a few houses up.

An odd-looking beetle Trouble found and brought over to show us.

Bogey, heading out of Port Clinton. The house at which we got water is pictured in front of her and to the right.

Graffiti under the highway bridge.

Making the big climb out of Port Clinton. Alas, towns and roads are rarely built on the top of mountains, so nearly all exits from town along the Trail are up. It's also at these points in the hike that are packs are most loaded with food and water and stove fuel, thus making the packs heavy.

A boulder field. Not the craziest we've seen but very typical. The rocks are beginning to take their toll on our feet, which are pretty sore at the end of the day.

Thankfully, we don't have to cross this boulder field. This field was created by a glacier as it retreated after the last ice age.

A better view of the same boulder field. Little did I know that ultimately we'd cross other fields just like this one. We are only minutes away from Blue Rocks Campsite, where we will spend the night. Our goal was to camp at a site just outside the fence of the private campground but, alas, we never saw such a place. The information we received from other hikers concerning the stealth campsite may have referred to something along the Yellow Trail -- we're on the Blue Trail. In any case, the side trail on which we found ourselves and which linked the AT to the private campground was poorly maintained, very rock, and quite steep. The campsite itself was noisy and filled with RVs, car campers, and weekend families. There was a swimming pool, general store, and other distractions which we hastened past to get to the gravel pad designated at "Site #72." At 8 PM the campsite showed the movie "Frozen" down by the swimming pool. I'm pretty sure this place offers karaoke at least once a week, too. We did not sleep well.

2014-05-30: Port Clinton, PA

Start: 2 miles north of Hertlein Campsite
Stop: Port Clinton, PA
Day's Mileage: 16.1
Trip Total: 152.8

Today was long. Water was a little difficult to find or was far enough off the trail that we chose to ignore it, hoping we'd come to creeks or unmarked springs instead. The scarcity was a little surprising given the steady drizzle that fell overnight, which I thought would recharge the springs. As it was, we rolled into Port Clinton on empty. Well, at least I did, having gulped the last of my water 30 minutes prior to the big and dreaded descent into town. Downhills are always nerve wracking and more physically demanding for me than are the uphills.

Tomorrow will be a light day. We're going to try and get to Cabellas in Hamburg plus the Walmart so we can do a restock. Plus, our feet our beat up from the rock fields and boulders which occupied most of the afternoon.

I'm now taping up both feet in the morning and it's really made a difference. I may look like a mummy from the ankle down but I can walk for hours with no pain!

Bogey enjoying breakfast. It had rained overnight, so we opted to stay in our tents while leaning out to do our coffee and heat our breakfasts.

A marker one mile north of our campsite. The marker commemorates a lookout post officially known as the Fort at Dietrich Snyder's. The structure, when used, wasn't truly a fort but rather a log cabin used as an outpost to keep tabs on people, namely native Americans, who used the nearby road over the mountains.

Taking a break and filling our water bottles from a creek. I was too lazy (tired) to do anything but point the camera from where we sat and past our packs to the creek.

One of a handful of road crossings today. Many of the roads through state wildlife management areas are unimproved and probably don't see a lot of traffic. The crossings are a nice break from just staring at trees all day, plus you can see the sky!

Sign with rules. Different properties have different rules and you have to keep them straight lest you get on the wrong side of a game warden, park ranger, sheriff deputy, or a property owner. The Trail passes through federal and state lands of various sorts, county and municipal parks, and even private property.

Crossing the Northern and Reading Railroad upon entering Port Clinton, PA. It was a steep descent into town -- 1100 feet in less than a mile -- absolutely brutal after 15 miles. Our plans to stay near Phillip's Canyon Spring were scuttled when we found the creek dry and we couldn't locate the spring. Without water, we were forced to push on an extra four miles to Port Clinton. However, the city allows hikers to camp in the city park and a thoughtful woman 2 blocks away allows hikers to draw water from a spigot. We ran into other hikers we know, including Trouble, whose on his second thru- hike, plus met some new people.

2014-05-29: 2 miles north of Hertlein Campsite

Start: PA  645
Stop: 2 miles north of Hertlein Campsite
Day's Mileage: 9.5 miles
Trip Total: 136.7miles

Seen at nearly every paved road crossing, a sign marking the Trail. Pennsylvania is about the only place we've seen such consistent treatment of the Trail.

 A USGS survey marker found on the Trail. This one is unique because it sports the AT logo.

A toasty warm campfire in front of the tents. Suspecting rain tonight, we pitched our respective tents with the rain flies deployed. Sure enough, once the fire died down and we retired for the night, a steady drizzle started. As Bogey pointed out, we'll be packing sway and carrying wet tents tomorrow!

2014-05-28: PA 645/Pine Grove, PA

Start: PA 645/Pine Grove, PA
Stop: PA 645/Pine Grove, PA
Day's Mileage: 0 miles
Trip Total: 127.2 miles

We pull our first "zero," a day in which we hike zero miles. Occasionally we need such breaks to repair gear and let our bodies rest. Much more common, though, are "nearos" or "neros" -- an arrangement where you camp just shy of town, stay one night, and then head back out the next.

Taping my foot to reduce the pain and damage from plantar fasciitis. So far, it seems to be working. Ball and heel of foot still bruised, swollen, and tender but that's tons better than the seeming slow motion tearing of the bottom of my foot from the rest of my foot. Geez.

2014-05-27: PA 645/Pine Grove, PA

Start: south of William Penn Shelter
Stop: PA 645/Pine Grove, PA
Day's Mileage: 5.0 miles
Trip Total: 127.2 miles

Road crossing. A sign marking the Appalachian Trail peaks in from the right side of the photo.

Fields of ferns. Seeing this in person reminds me of those optical illusions where if you stare at a pattern long enough you'll see a picture of an elephant. I saw this off and on for hours but all I ever saw was a chipmunk. I don't believe he was an illusion.

2014-05-26: 4 miles north of I-81 Underpass

Start: Cold Spring Shelter
Stop: 4 miles north of I-81 Underpass
Day's Mileage: 12.9
Trip Total: 122.2 miles

The bridge that once supported the railroad built to move coal from the old mine. The Trail was easy walking for a bit as it followed the rail bed.

A description of village past the coal mine. "The village of Rausch Gap stood here from 1828 to 1910. Peak population of 1000+ people. Industries were coal mining and railroad equipment repair. The mines were not productive and the railraod moved its operations in 1872."

Another marker memorializing a trail maintainer and hiker.

A sign describing a lime filter built into a creek bed. The lime lowered the pH balance of the water and made it safer for wildlife. This technique of damming a stream and forcing the water down and through a pack of limestone originated in Sweden. This particular installation in Pennsylvania was the first such filter in the United States. It's pretty cool what you can find on the Trail.

The Trail as it heads over a meadow on a mountain ridge. This scene reminded me of the balds we saw in Virginia.

A steel bridge over the Swatara River. We'll see iron structure by the same iron bridge construction company farther north on the Trail. Bogey and I took a few moments to take off our boots and cool our feet in the river under the bridge. We also ran into Trouble, another hiker we met a few days ago. He's thru-hiking for the second time and promising that this time he'll stop and smell the roses.

Bogey, studying her notes next the campfire.

Warming our feet by the fire. Campfires are often referred to as "hiker TV" since they provide the focus and main source of entertainment in the evening.

2014-05-25: Cold Spring Trail

Start: Kinter View
Stop: Cold Spring Trail
Day's Mileage: 13.0 miles
Trip Total: 109.3

The Trail passes by several sites that once had settlements or industry. In this case, we see signs indicating a coal mine was once here. There's not much to see now, though.

2014-05-24: Kinter View

Start: Duncannon, PA
Stop: Kinter View
Day's Mileage: 13.6 miles
Trip Total: 96.3 miles

The Susquehanna River as seen from the highway bridge crossing it. The highway department kindly provides a sidewalk separated from the bridge by a concrete guardrail. We were set upon by two peregrine falcons at the north end of the bridge, a common occurrence, we learned from other hikers. The falcons have a nest under the bridge which they defend. The swoops and screeching were enough that I put my trekking poles over my head and waved them around. I'm sure drivers passing by thought I was crazy.

Bogey doing her favorite thing: standing on rocks and looking victorious and pleased at conquering another climb.

2014-05-23: Market St/Duncannon, PA

Start: Darlington Shelter
Stop: Duncannon, PA
Day's Mileage: 11.4 miles
Trip Total: 82.7 miles

A view provided by a cut through the trees. Most such cuts are provided for utilities easements, such as power lines and gas pipelines. This one was for a gas pipeline.

A view down to a stream or small river (in the foreground) feeding the Susquehanna River (in the background). The Susquehanna River marks the halfway point for the Trail across Pennsylvania.

Bogey, making her way across a rocky section heading down to the the town of Duncannon, PA. the descent was the steepest we've seen so far but not uncommon on the Trail.

Well, if that's not a deal then I don't know what is.

Our room at the Stardust Motel in Duncannon, PA. The room was alright by hiker standards but by no means 4 or 5 stars. Our other choice of accommodations was the Doyle Hotel in town. We were put off by its reputation as a true dive and a party place. We don't necessarily mind dives when it comes to restaurants and the occasional bar, but neither one of us wanted to sleep with bugs after having done so in the woods for several days. We were also creeped out by the manner in which a number of locals recommended it -- we both felt the situation came straight out of a B-grade horror movie. "Try the Doyle -- you'll love it. Hikers never leave..." The Stardust suited us just find and had laundry machines upstairs and the owner gave us a ride back to town in the morning.

2014-05-22: Darlington Shelter

Start: Boiling Springs, PA
Stop: Darlington Shelter
Day's Mileage: 14.3 miles

Trip Total: 71.3 miles

Ruins of an old farmhouse or other structure found at a road crossing. We left Boiling Springs, PA a few hours later and this is our first break of the day. It's a small parking lot alongside a county road.

The first stile we've encountered in Pennsylvania. Stiles are used to provide hikers a way over fences while still preventing animals from passing through or over. This was an easy stile. Some are not so well constructed or can be slippery in the rain.

A white blaze painted on a post next to a field. The Pennsylvania Turnpike is about a quarter mile to our left and we've been able to hear it for about 45 minutes.

A small cemetery next to the Trail.

The Pennsylvania Turnpike as we pass over it. By the end of the Summer, we'll have passed over interstates, turnpikes, state and U.S. highways, county roads, and many other bits and pieces of transportation infrastructure. It's not uncommon for drivers to notice us and honk and wave, as this trucker did.

More farmlands.

Bogey's feet. She's suffering from some sort of rash which has left red welts.

Finally, we're back in the mountains and out of the Cumberland Valley.

2014-05-21: Boiling Springs, PA

Start: Mt Holly, PA
Stop: Boiling Springs, PA
Day's Mileage: 8.8 miles
Trip Total: 57.0 miles

A road crossing. The day was misty and we were afraid it might rain. Rain isn't a big deal; it's more of a nuisance.

A turtle Bogey found.

One of handful of plaques found on the Trail. Such plaques often commemorate a particularly hardworking or otherwise memorable trail supporter.

Our first Cumberland Valley farm. Camping in the Cumberland Valley is very limited due to the development in the area. Our only opportunity for camping in this section is in a field outside the next town.

Bogey, trudging between farm fields. The Trail here is fairly obvious but is also marked with white blazes painted on 4-by-4 posts stuck in the ground. Bogey doesn't particularly enjoy the farms but I like them as a change of pace.

Someone's dogs eying us as we enter Boiling Springs, PA.

The town of Boiling Springs, PA. It was a cute town with a large pond in the middle. After surveying the field where we were allowed to pitch camp, we opted to try a motel in town. The field smelled of manure, looked like the perfect place for a host of ticks, and just seemed dismal, especially in this weather. Also, we miscalculated our food and we'd need to stop in town anyway to get supplies. It's unfortunate, though, that we're doing motels two nights in a row, as it's costly and seems in a sense as if we're cheating. We promise ourselves to better manage our supplies and stretch our our towns stops from here on out.

A mother duck and her ducklings in the park.